New Coffee: Colombia El Jordan Peaberry Reserve
Our next Colombian microlot comes from a familiar name at Four Barrel, El Jordan. We have offered several different coffees from El Jordan in the past, and this lot is an all peaberry reserve lot.
The name El Jordan does not refer to a single farm, but rather it is the name of a collaboration involving members of the APCEJOR and ACEDGA producer associations in the Gaitania de Plana province of Tolima. The variety of producers within these two associations creates a rich foundation for the producers to create specially sorted lots during different periods of the harvest. This particular lot is a very special selection that is 100% peaberry.
Usually, a coffee cherry contains two seeds, which is why a coffee bean has one flat face. Sometimes, for whatever reason, one of the seeds does not develop inside the cherry, leaving a single seed to develop into its characteristic round peaberry shape. Sometimes, peaberries are screened out of coffee as defects, especially in producing countries where coffee is graded by size. Sometimes, as in the case of the El Jordan Peaberry Reserve, the producers are requested to produce a special peaberry sorting.
In the cup, peaberry coffee tastes different from its flat-bean counterpart. Increased intensity, more sweetness, and a more lively acidity are qualities often attributed to peaberries. A peaberry lot can sometimes, but not always, taste better than an unsorted lot.
Several factors may contribute to peaberry’s distinction: It’s possible that the peaberry experiences different conditions within the cherry during development, which could increase soluble material in the seed. It’s also possible that peaberries behave differently during fermenting and washing, imparting a signature quality to the peaberries. Peaberries undeniably roast different from flat-beans, which may contribute to the qualities we experience in a peaberry coffee.
So far, no significant studies have been done on the botanical or biochemical distinctions of peaberries, and from our perspective, none of these variables can be isolated. Consequently, any explanation of what makes a peaberry coffee taste different can only be conjectural and speculative. What is significant is simply the fact that there is a difference, and in the case of the El Jordan Peaberry Reserve, that difference tastes GREAT: Cranberry and fresh strawberry in the aroma become strawberry reduction in the cup - sweet and viscous. A remarkably silky mouthfeel and sound structure finish with sparkling notes of cranberry and pomegranate. This syrupy, fruit laden coffee is a small, limited lot available for only a short time.
